Thursday, July 26, 2012

lounging in luang

Luang Prabang really is a lovely little town in central northern Laos.
My second days ride on the boat was really pleasant - bigger boat, less people and great weather.


mekong river ride


mekong river view

Arriving in L.P. I immediately felt certain I would like the place. Being off season it is relatively quiet tourist wise, but the weather is completely unpredictable. Yesterday it rained almost the entire day. Fortunately I have given myself about four days here to wander the streets and visit the temples.

The town is very well kept, tidy and neat with beautiful buildings and back lanes.


luang laneway


laneway

There is also an abundance of temples scattered around the town. I have enjoyed wandering around the town (when it isn't raining) getting a feel for the place. I've visited a few of the temples but you can tire quite quickly from them. Yesterday afternoon I went into one of them for the afternoon chanting by the monks. The sonorous drone in the humid and darkened hall was quite mesmerising. Half an hour passed in the blink of an eye.


view from temple


temple doors


shrine


national museum rooftop


chanting monks

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

mekong meandering

I am currently sitting in a little cafe in Pakbeng - a one street town in North Western Laos. I arrived here last night after a 7 hour boat ride down the Mekong which would have been incredibly scenic if it hadn't rained non-stop. But in a slow-boat full of mostly gap year European backpackers it was anything but boring.

I was glad to finally get out of Bangkok. It didn't really feel as if I had started my trip.

I flew to Northern Thailand to a small city called Chiang Rai for just a couple of days en route to the Laos border. Being monsoon season and rainfall unpredictable I decided to forgo the trip into the mountains for the scenic dawn view!

One of the other recommended sights was Wat Rong Khun aka The White Temple. An odd blend of modernist Thai construction and Disney, it was however quite striking after having visited many of the bog standard Thai temples.


white temple


white temple


white temple


white temple sculpture

Another highlight of Chiang Rai was running into a couple of 'randoms' (term for chance meetings with strangers).
One was a French guy who chucked his job 15 years ago and started global roaming. He's lived in Tokyo and New York and is once again off backpacking for 6 months or more.

The other was a young Aussie (24) on his first o/s trip. He flew to Hanoi, bought a motorbike and then proceeded to ride all through Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and had just completed Thailand. He was about to ride back through Laos from the north to Vientiane the capital to sell the bike! We all met in a cafe and hung out together until I left yesterday.


chiang rai clock tower


bug food


more bugs


and more bugs


night bazarre

Before I left Chiang Rai I went in search of some mozzie repellent - found one tube in a local pharmacy which stated on the front "repels mosquitos and snails". My mind boggled a bit.

Pakbeng, this little town out in the middle of the Laos jungle is the halfway point of the boat trip. It is probably one of the only reasons for it's existence.

Tonight I should be in Labang Prabang.

Sunday, July 15, 2012

boring in bangkok

Well I am finally away once again, having left Sydney for good last week.

I've been in Bangkok all of this time as I needed to finish off some major dental work before continuing with the travels.

There's not a lot to blog about as I am not enamoured with the city. But this post is just to get the ball rolling!!

More to come.....


Scenic - but be thankful it aint in smellavision


The Rolls Royce of fruit - and a dollar a kilo


Bangkok Centre for Arts and Culture


Inside BCAC


well thank goodness its fresh

Monday, January 2, 2012

towards the roof of the world

Well finally, after wanting to do this for quite a few years, ('any takers') I have booked a spot on the Baltoro, K2 Base Camp, Gondogoro La trek for 8th August. (NB updated to actual dates 06/05/12)

I leave Sydney in early July and I will be arriving in Pakistan via Laos, and North West India then crossing at the Wagah Gate to Lahore.


trek map (all images courtesy of the web)

Leaving Islamabad, Pakistan - it lasts 22 days in all. The glacier trek itself coves some of the most spectacular scenery on earth, encompassing as it does, 8 of 20 of the world's highest mountains.

The high point of the trek, both in figurative and literal terms, will be the K2 Base Camp and Gondogoro La high pass (5,940m) and Concordia - the junction of the Baltoro, Godwin Austen,Gasherbrum and Vigne Glaciers.


gondogoro la pass


trango tower


K2


ali camp before taking on the pass


vigne glacier



charakusa valley


k2-concordia

Gondogoro La is slightly higher than Kilimanjaro (5,895m) but I anticipate it being a little less taxing as the start of the trek is around 5,000m and the climb over the pass (begun at 1am) is only 940m up from the base camp. Whereas the Kili summit entailed a midnight start and climb of almost 1,400m.

After the trek I will head either north up the Karakorum Highway into China and head to Kashgar to try and see some of it before the Chinese completely destroy the ancient town, or south to a region called Fairy Meadow - an unusual very non - Pakistani name for a high alpine region that could be mistaken for Switzerland.


fairy meadow

Here one can confront the magnificent Nanga Parbat (8,126m), the ninth highest mountain in the world which possesses the highest mountain face on the planet.

Or perhaps I'll do both.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

"...and we've got just three days"

June 1977 - December 1978

Recent conversations brought to mind a profoundly influential episode in my early years that originated from one of my earliest trips.

I had been on the usual trajectory (birth - school - university - career - death) when a hiatus occurred in my first semester at art college in early 1977. Being faced with the proposition by my lecturers of "expressing your experiences in life through your artwork" I came to the conclusion that my only experiences so far with life were school. And I didn't fancy making artwork about that.

So I upped and offed to the UK to try and get me some experiences.

After a disastrous start as a trainee manager at the Metropole, a business hotel in Leeds, an altercation with a piano saw me quit the position for a brief spell of unemployment.


hotel metropole

Leeds is one of Britain's largest cities in the north of England and is very close to the historic city of York of which I frequently visited.



On one of these visits I found myself captivated by the viking archaeological excavations of Coppergate that were in progress at the time and which subsequently became known as Jorvik.


coppergate viking dig 1977 (image courtesy of the web)

I spent a good hour and a half leaning over the fence watching the diggers in action. On the way back to my home base in Leeds I began chatting to the woman sitting next to me on the bus. I began telling her how amazing I found the excavations and she suggested that I contact the local archaeology unit to see if they wanted volunteers. I was surprised as I expected all of the people on site to be trained archeologists.

The following morning I rang the West Yorkshire Rescue Archaeology Unit as it was then known and offered my services as a volunteer. I was surprised when they accepted.

So the very next day I was at their headquarters at 08.30 am. I was taken out to their main site in a small old mining town called Castleford, or Lagentium as the Romans would have known it.

Almost immediately I was assigned the task of dismantling a section of old Medieval wall. This entailed removing each stone one by one and checking carefully for any finds that might be lying amongst the clay mortar. I was thrilled to be, on my first day, on a dig up to my elbows in mud and clay actually taking apart a Medieval wall! Yee hah!

It wasn't until several months later that I realised this was one of the crappy jobs the real archeologists didn't want to do!

But my enthusiasm was, as they say, unbridled and I was regularly first on site and last to leave. So keen was I that after 4 weeks of volunteer work and an injection of council funds I found myself being given a paid position. Suddenly I was being paid to do what I was more than happy to do for nothing. And ironically, after 3 months I was put in charge of volunteers!

The Castleford dig had been in operation for almost a year when I arrived. The Archaeology unit had been given permission to try and clarify a series of early Roman forts that had been found in the town before the whole area was to be destroyed by a major road bypass.

The site as I first saw it consisted of a lot of holes in the ground with almost no visible structures. Early Roman forts were built of wood with clay and turf defence ramparts. This left little behind except for post-holes and patchwork quilt-like colourations in the soil.


defence ditch in cross section


turf rampart

But it was during a lunch break in the final stages of wrapping up the site that a team member, whilst digging in an area of the site not scheduled for excavation, suddenly discovered a small section of finely dressed (i.e. chiseled) stonework wall foundations.

This piqued the curiosity of the digging team and we immediately began to use our own spare time to uncover more. By chance, this small section of wall turned out to be the corner of a Roman 'Natatio', or cold plunge bath, belonging to what would turn out to be one of the finest examples of Roman Bathhouse complexes in the North of England.


the natatio or cold plunge bath - centre foreground of the photo is the rectangular drainage ditch for the bath. The entire floor surface is the original and is made of opus signinum a form of Roman cement.

It was this discovery that led to the Councils cash injection and my ensuing employment. Suddenly the dig's life was extended, the entire bathhouse uncovered and the road bypass was ... well ... bypassed!


bathhouse foundations


stone channel to carry water to the baths


pilae stacks - small columns to support the bath floor for underfloor heating


yorkshire evening post coverage


here I'm excavating a chunk of wall plaster that collapsed into the room


far corner of the excavation


clay metalworking kiln I discovered and uncovered


showing how close to the present day surface was some of the archaeology


bathhouse complex photo


complete bathhouse site plan


artists reconstruction of what the bathhouse perhaps looked like

Having had some background in the Visual Arts I found myself being useful for other activities apart from digging. I was trained to use surveying equipment for site planning, I was also involved in site photography, and section and finds drawings for use in later reports. (The following photos are drawings I made back in 1978 for my own report of my experiences and not for the Archaeology Unit.)


carved bone pin


brooch and ring drawings


hypocaust (underground heating) section drawing


roman trumpet brooch


small copy of a large section drawing


diggers adrian tindall and steve wager using a planning frame - this frame was 2 x 1 metres with 10cm gradations in elastic. It was laid over the ground and each 10cm square corresponded to a single square on graph paper. The elastic allowed the squares to 'mould' themselves over objects.

A slow and laborious job was planning. The above site plan drawing is therefore an exact reproduction of every stone in situ of the entire bathhouse complex.

Apart from Castleford, during my 18 months with the unit I also worked on their other more long term excavation: Dalton Parlours, a hill top site comprising Stone Age, Iron Age, Bronze Age, Roman and Saxon settlements superimposed over an acre of farmland about 18kms North East of Leeds.


dalton parlours saxon skeleton


dalton parlours hypocaust

Also on rainy days I spent time cleaning finds and glueing potsherds together, assisting the 'beetle man' separating and classifying insect parts, and in mid winter when the ground was frozen I worked for several months with 16th Century tithe maps from the city archives scouring them for potential archaeological information which could then be transcribed onto modern day constraint maps.

When I finally returned to Australia 2 years after I had left, and re-enrolled in Art College I had me a sack full of experiences!

My time with the West Yorkshire Rescue Archaeology Unit was quite an extraordinary and powerful experience which had a very positive and lasting influence on my early sculpture work.