Monday, January 2, 2012

towards the roof of the world

Well finally, after wanting to do this for quite a few years, ('any takers') I have booked a spot on the Baltoro, K2 Base Camp, Gondogoro La trek for 4th July.

I have tentatively planned to leave Sydney around the end of April/early May and I will be arriving in Pakistan probably via Laos, Bangladesh & Kashmir then crossing at the Wagah Gate to Lahore.


trek map (all images courtesy of the web)

Leaving Islamabad, Pakistan - it lasts 22 days in all. The glacier trek itself coves some of the most spectacular scenery on earth, encompassing as it does, 8 of 20 of the world's highest mountains.

The high point of the trek, both in figurative and literal terms, will be the K2 Base Camp and Gondogoro La high pass (5,940m) and Concordia - the junction of the Baltoro, Godwin Austen,Gasherbrum and Vigne Glaciers.


gondogoro la pass


trango tower


K2


ali camp before taking on the pass


vigne glacier



charakusa valley


k2-concordia

Gondogoro La is slightly higher than Kilimanjaro (5,895m) but I anticipate it being a little less taxing as the start of the trek is around 3,000m and the climb over the pass (begun at 1am) is only 930m up from the base camp. Whereas the Kili summit entailed a midnight start and climb of almost 1,400m.

After the trek I will head either north up the Karakorum Highway into China and head to Kashgar to try and see some of it before the Chinese completely destroy the ancient town, or south to a region called Fairy Meadow - an unusual very non - Pakistani name for a high alpine region that could be mistaken for Switzerland.


fairy meadow

Here one can confront the magnificent Nanga Parbat (8,126m), the ninth highest mountain in the world which possesses the highest mountain face on the planet.

Or perhaps I'll do both.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

"...and we've got just three days"

June 1977 - December 1978

Recent conversations brought to mind a profoundly influential episode in my early years that originated from one of my earliest trips.

I had been on the usual trajectory (birth - school - university - career - death) when a hiatus occurred in my first semester at art college in early 1977. Being faced with the proposition by my lecturers of "expressing your experiences in life through your artwork" I came to the conclusion that my only experiences so far with life were school. And I didn't fancy making artwork about that.

So I upped and offed to the UK to try and get me some experiences.

After a disastrous start as a trainee manager at the Metropole, a business hotel in Leeds, an altercation with a piano saw me quit the position for a brief spell of unemployment.


hotel metropole

Leeds is one of Britain's largest cities in the north of England and is very close to the historic city of York of which I frequently visited.



On one of these visits I found myself captivated by the viking archaeological excavations of Coppergate that were in progress at the time and which subsequently became known as Jorvik.


coppergate viking dig 1977 (image courtesy of the web)

I spent a good hour and a half leaning over the fence watching the diggers in action. On the way back to my home base in Leeds I began chatting to the woman sitting next to me on the bus. I began telling her how amazing I found the excavations and she suggested that I contact the local archaeology unit to see if they wanted volunteers. I was surprised as I expected all of the people on site to be trained archeologists.

The following morning I rang the West Yorkshire Rescue Archaeology Unit as it was then known and offered my services as a volunteer. I was surprised when they accepted.

So the very next day I was at their headquarters at 08.30 am. I was taken out to their main site in a small old mining town called Castleford, or Lagentium as the Romans would have known it.

Almost immediately I was assigned the task of dismantling a section of old Medieval wall. This entailed removing each stone one by one and checking carefully for any finds that might be lying amongst the clay mortar. I was thrilled to be, on my first day, on a dig up to my elbows in mud and clay actually taking apart a Medieval wall! Yee hah!

It wasn't until several months later that I realised this was one of the crappy jobs the real archeologists didn't want to do!

But my enthusiasm was, as they say, unbridled and I was regularly first on site and last to leave. So keen was I that after 4 weeks of volunteer work and an injection of council funds I found myself being given a paid position. Suddenly I was being paid to do what I was more than happy to do for nothing. And ironically, after 3 months I was put in charge of volunteers!

The Castleford dig had been in operation for almost a year when I arrived. The Archaeology unit had been given permission to try and clarify a series of early Roman forts that had been found in the town before the whole area was to be destroyed by a major road bypass.

The site as I first saw it consisted of a lot of holes in the ground with almost no visible structures. Early Roman forts were built of wood with clay and turf defence ramparts. This left little behind except for post-holes and patchwork quilt-like colourations in the soil.


defence ditch in cross section


turf rampart

But it was during a lunch break in the final stages of wrapping up the site that a team member, whilst digging in an area of the site not scheduled for excavation, suddenly discovered a small section of finely dressed (i.e. chiseled) stonework wall foundations.

This piqued the curiosity of the digging team and we immediately began to use our own spare time to uncover more. By chance, this small section of wall turned out to be the corner of a Roman 'Natatio', or cold plunge bath, belonging to what would turn out to be one of the finest examples of Roman Bathhouse complexes in the North of England.


the natatio or cold plunge bath - centre foreground of the photo is the rectangular drainage ditch for the bath. The entire floor surface is the original and is made of opus signinum a form of Roman cement.

It was this discovery that led to the Councils cash injection and my ensuing employment. Suddenly the dig's life was extended, the entire bathhouse uncovered and the road bypass was ... well ... bypassed!


bathhouse foundations


stone channel to carry water to the baths


pilae stacks - small columns to support the bath floor for underfloor heating


yorkshire evening post coverage


here I'm excavating a chunk of wall plaster that collapsed into the room


far corner of the excavation


clay metalworking kiln I discovered and uncovered


showing how close to the present day surface was some of the archaeology


bathhouse complex photo


complete bathhouse site plan


artists reconstruction of what the bathhouse perhaps looked like

Having had some background in the Visual Arts I found myself being useful for other activities apart from digging. I was trained to use surveying equipment for site planning, I was also involved in site photography, and section and finds drawings for use in later reports. (The following photos are drawings I made back in 1978 for my own report of my experiences and not for the Archaeology Unit.)


carved bone pin


brooch and ring drawings


hypocaust (underground heating) section drawing


roman trumpet brooch


small copy of a large section drawing


diggers adrian tindall and steve wager using a planning frame - this frame was 2 x 1 metres with 10cm gradations in elastic. It was laid over the ground and each 10cm square corresponded to a single square on graph paper. The elastic allowed the squares to 'mould' themselves over objects.

A slow and laborious job was planning. The above site plan drawing is therefore an exact reproduction of every stone in situ of the entire bathhouse complex.

Apart from Castleford, during my 18 months with the unit I also worked on their other more long term excavation: Dalton Parlours, a hill top site comprising Stone Age, Iron Age, Bronze Age, Roman and Saxon settlements superimposed over an acre of farmland about 18kms North East of Leeds.


dalton parlours saxon skeleton


dalton parlours hypocaust

Also on rainy days I spent time cleaning finds and glueing potsherds together, assisting the 'beetle man' separating and classifying insect parts, and in mid winter when the ground was frozen I worked for several months with 16th Century tithe maps from the city archives scouring them for potential archaeological information which could then be transcribed onto modern day constraint maps.

When I finally returned to Australia 2 years after I had left, and re-enrolled in Art College I had me a sack full of experiences!

My time with the West Yorkshire Rescue Archaeology Unit was quite an extraordinary and powerful experience which had a very positive and lasting influence on my early sculpture work.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

another year bolder

video
bagan birthday ritual

bagan panorama


*click image twice to get panorama full sized

beaut bagan and brillo b/day

It was a 6 hour bus ride from Mandalay to Bagan in a comfortable air-conditioned bus. There were only 3 seats across the width of the bus so plenty of room for corpulent Westerners to spread out. Pedro and Claudia were on the same bus along with another couple of lasses who we met in Mandalay, Claire (OZ) and Anna (Canada).

But there was still the ubiquitous karaoke tv and the appalling road to deal with. We seem to be taking the back road to Bagan because surely this cannot be the main Mandalay - Bagan thoroughfare?


bus karaoke


and it was ka ka. (instant coffee, powdered milk and sugar all-in-one)


Once in Bagan Claudia, Pedro and myself hired a pony and trap to take us around several of the guest houses to see what was on offer.

We finally settled on the New Park. They wanted $16 for a single room, but when it looked like I was about to go elsewhere, they suddenly admitted to have 'economy' singles for $10. The room was ok but the bathroom was extremely shabby. I had to move from the first one as the ceiling fan sounded like the incoming choppers on Apocalypse Now. I felt a beheading was imminent.

The second room's fan was quieter - but was jammed on the lowest setting. So I was supplied with some pliers and had to take the knob off the switch and use the pliers to adjust the fan setting. There was also a fight to get hot water.

When they turned on the heating element, it took a full 10 minutes for the hot water to run through the warren of pipes to reach my shower rose. Not so much a rose - rather a skanky thistle that sprayed water in every direction but downwards. I had to stand a metre away from under the shower head in order to get wet.

That evening we celebrated Claire's birthday at a nearby restaurant serving excellent food.


anna, claire, terry, pedro and claudia

The following morning o casal Português and I hired bicycles for the day and set off to explore the fields and temples of Bagan.

Bagan is wonderful. Really really wonderful. One of my absolute favourite places so far in my world travels.

Almost 42 sq kms in size, it is a fertile green plain (at least it is now at the end of the monsoon season) nestled in the crook of the Irriwaddy River. Originally consisting of over 5,000 pagodas this number has been reduced to around 2,200 after a severe earthquake in 1975. The majority of these were built in the 11th century to 13th century.






ananda temple


ananda temple


ananda temple















Whilst out riding we accidentally found ourselves in the grounds of a wonderful expensive looking hotel down on the riverfront. It had a wonderful setting, beautiful gardens and a swimming pool and on an impulse I booked myself in for one night on my birthday eve. The standard room cost $28 including buffet breakfast. (NB: a buffet breakfast to backpackers means a lottery windfall!!)

Pedro and Claudia soon decided they deserved a treat after having been backpacking on the road for the previous 6 months and also booked in for the night.


bagan thande hotel






reception notice board!!


eating outside the hotel as it was too expensive inside


local postcard selling girls

The photographs can't possibly do justice to how incredible the Bagan scenery is. It is the range and scope of the pagodas that is breathtaking. Once you have been inside several there isn't the need to enter more. But all over the plain there are excellent vantage points with which to absorb the splendour that is Bagan.

So I spent my birthday in a fantastic setting with wonderful companions, and later on my birthday afternoon I flew back to Yangon for one night before leaving to return to Sydney.

Trip over!


* click to enlarge