towers of pain

My five day hike to Torres del Paine has finished and I am sitting comfortably in the warm surrounds of an El Calafate (Argentina) hostel having arrived last night from the Chilean National Park.

My bad cold refused to go away so the entire hike was uncomfortably difficult as I was continually coughing and blowing my nose!

The day I arrived by bus in the morning from Puerto Natales was bleak, coldy, windy with sleety snow falling. The sky was gray and cloudy as about 50 intrepid hikers boarded the catamaran that was to take us to the western side of the National Park.

I was about to do what is referred to as the ¨W¨ Hike - a trip that follows three incline valleys that wind there way up the sides of two mountain formations - Los Cuernos (The Horns) and the Torres del Paine (The Towers of Paine).

The first days hike was only 3.5 hours and 11kms. My pack, with tent, cooking gear and 5 days food weighs around 20 - 22 kgs. This was a fairly comfortable walk with a few steep climbs. The weather began to behave itself, it didnt rain or snow and the wind died away. But the clouds remained.

On the catamaran I met a French woman, a German guy and a fellow from Quebec and we all teamed up to walk together.


gray first day


more gray/grey

The campsite sits close to Glacier Grey.


glacier grey

The following morning I woke to brilliantly clear blue skies. I broke camp and then walked back down the valley to the starting point for lunch. From there it was another 19 kms to the next stop Campiemento Italiano which sits toward the middle of the ¨W¨.


lunchspot day 2

This was a long and tiring days walk. But at least it was sunny.

This also gave us the best views of Los Cuernos, a magnificent and massive mountain with a distinctive 2 colour geological formation.


los cuernos


terry and los cuernos


more los cuernos


ditto


terry and los cuernos

After setting up camp I walked for about an hour up the central line of the ¨W¨for some different views of Los Cuernos. In this valley I could hear the loud rumbling of avalanches that were happening with regular frequency on the mountain. At one point I was lucky enough to see one.

That night in my tent i lay awake for a while listening to the the deep rumbles of avalanches - it was strangely comforting, like rain on a tin roof.

The following morning, another clear, still sunny day, entailed another long days hiking.

This took us along the bottom edge of the right side of the ¨W¨and up the right hand valley. This was about 22 kms on undulating paths with a steep climb toward the end.

This left me completely buggered!!


valley torres


the road goes ever on


view of lago grey

The fourth day was the hike up to the Towers.

I set off early after breakfast around half 7. I was at least able to leave my pack at camp as I was making a return trip to the towers.

The hike began with a 5km gradual climb to another campsite and once again I was blessed with perfect weather. From here it was another hour on a very steep path up to the towers which several people had said was very tough.

Fearing the worst I gritted my teeth and girded whatever needed girding, and set off. The path indeed was steep, wet in parts, and gravelly in others. One part had ropes slung between trees to assist in climbing.

Strangely. perhaps because of all the pessimistic warnings, or perhaps because I wasn´t carrying my pack (or a bit of both) I really enjoyed this part and didn´t find it a struggle at all.

Reaching the top, a sharp ridge where you are given tantalising glimpses of the towers, you suddenly emerge onto the most magnificent scene of the three towers set behind a half frozen lake. Breathtaking.

I spent at least half an hour here in the sun soaking up the scene and having a bite to eat before reluctantly heading back down to the campsite.

It was a deeply satisfying experience to finally get to see the Torres del Paine which a had already seen in many other peoples photos.

Once I picked up my pack I headed down to the final campsite, about 12 kms down the valley - thus completing the ¨W¨.


climbing to the towers


the splendid torres del paine


happy chappy

I treated myself to a bed in the refugio at the end and a hot shower. My bedroom had amazing views.


view from bedroom window



punta arenas cemetary


punta arenas cemetary 2


tierra del fuego


finding shoes to fit must have been hard


en route to puerto natales we came across a bus crash that had just happened. people were still climbing out of the front window. (No fatalities)

Tonight I catch a bus to El Chalten for some more hiking in Los Glaciaros National Park, and will hopefully get to see FitzRoy Mountain. Back to El Calafate in 3 or 4 days.

co´d id by doze

I have just settled into my hostel in Punta Arenas - a small town right down near the southernmost part of Chile. It sits on the Straits of Magellan which explains the ruddy big statue of him in the main square. I hope to cross the Straits on Sunday to set foot on Tierra del Fuego, which has always held an aura of mystery to me as one of those far flung places like Timbuktou.

After I left Santiago I bussed it down to a town called Pucon. Pron. Puke-on - it´s unfortunate as it is a delightful little town which has the still active Villarica volcano sitting on its outskirts. There are numerous signs around town which tell you what to do should the volcano erupt. (Strangely ´Panic Hysterically´ didn´t feature.)

By the time I arrived here the bad cold I had contracted on arrival at Easter Island continued to make a Phlegm Phactory out of me and I feared this would jeapordise my Villarica climb.

It did. I couldn´t make it to the top. I gave it a bloody good go - but right from the start my legs felt really weak, and by the third stage (2,400 metres) I had to concede defeat. There was still 400 metres to go but the guide estimated it was another 2-3 hours. The volcano was covered in a fresh fall of snow, and we needed crampons almost from the start.

I should have stopped at the second stage but I stubbornly forced myself to continue. The view from stage three made it worthwhile.

Coming down was a blast as the trek company provides you with what looks like an adult nappy. Made of strong nylon and leather, it is attached around your backside and you slide down the volcano on your arse.

I stayed three days in Pucon before catching a bus 5 hours south to Puerto Montt and immediately wished I hadn´t. A dreary dirty town and the overcast grey skies didn´t help. Fortunately I was only here for one night in order to carch a flight to Punta Arenas.

While here I need to gear up for the 5 - 6 day hike in Torres del Paine. I´m really looking forward to this and i am desperately hoping this infernal cold will allow me to complete the hike.

Will let you know as probably the next chance I have to blog will be afterward in El Calafate.


icon


santiago facade


3 locks


santiago sky


santiago building with gargoyle


gargoyle close


villarica from pucon


the volcano up close


me near the base


villarica stage 2


pucon reflection


must be a very small meal

gracias por la musica

Mercedes Sosa - Gracias a La Vida (YouTube)

A beautiful warm, sunny and relaxing day ended on a sad note for me.

My favourite Spanish-language singer, Mercedes Sosa died in Argentina.

Even though I never understood the lyrics of her songs, the emotive quality of her voice and the way it interwove with the melodies was understanding enough. I have loved her singing since I was first introduced to her almost 20 years ago.

I had half hoped that perhaps there was a chance of seeing her whilst here in her home continent.

Not to be.

back to basics

Remote-island economies often means higher prices as many things need to be imported.
Iceland was a good example of this.

Easter Island hostel accommodation is almost 3 times the price of mainland hostels. And this is what you get for your money:


bathroom light switch


bathroom light

Still, despite the lethal electrics, the giant cockroach doing breastroke in the shower stall, and the tissue paper thin walls (the snoring man in the next room may as well have been in bed next to me) - I enjoyed myself immensely.

big heads

It is always a little strange to finally find yourself somewhere you have long thought about going to but never really suspected would actually happen.

I think I first saw the giant heads of Easter Island on a Doco when I was around 8 to 10 years old. They intrigued me then as they do now.

On arrival, I was fortunate to meet a French couple and an Irish lass at my hostel, and we teamed up to rent a car for the day.

Being a small island, we were able to cover all the major sculptural sights quite easily in about 8 hours. We were blessed with excellent weather, especially as during the prior 7 days it had rained almost non-stop.

I also made friends with a lovely group of 9 paediatric doctors and nurses from Santiago who kept me entertained during the evenings around the hostel kitchen table.

I celebrated my birthday here - and had a rousing rendition of Happy Birthday (in Spanish) over breakfast from all present.

The current view on the reason for the existence of the statues on Easter Island is that they represent authority figures such as tribal chiefs; and the continued construction of these massive figures over many hundreds of years led to the deforestation and complete destruction of the islands ecology.

This lead to soil erosion, loss of crops, and the inability to make new canoes to go fishing as there were no more trees.

Having had three days on the island, I think the real reason for the statues existence is that prior to the invention of bingo and karaoke - the islanders made them out of sheer and utter boredom.



volcano


small group


large group from afar


large group


by the sea


my favourites - they look quite surly


some are quite tall


these look like they are being engulfed by the grass


playing with the Doctors and Nurses

window of opportunity

A few snaps of the Andes crossing by bus - 8 hours in all but about 2 at customs, one of the most ineffectual border crossings I have ever seen. We sat around waiting and waiting whilst a number of customs agents sat around twiddling their opposables. There were windows for bus passengers (huge long lines) and windows for a few car drivers. (twiddlers)

Do you think there was a chance for the Twiddlers to help out the Bussers when they had nothing to do? (About as much chance as me becoming lead male for the Bolshoi Ballet that´s how much)

So I stood sullenly in line casting baleful glances and wishing for sprained thumbs on the lot of them.

I was lucky to have decided to come today. My bus driver told me the high pass at the customs post was blocked the day before and people had to sit in their buses/cars for 11 hours!! And he said there was another blizzard forecast for tomorrow.

Arriving in Santiago I was blessed with one of those rare occasions where everything works effortlessly in my favour.

There was a metro station outside the bus terminal and it was on the correct line to take me to the station directly opposite where I was staying. My hostel happens to be right in the centre of the city in a lovely cobbled-streeted area full of big old buildings. This atmospheric area only extends to one city block.

The hostel was huge, old and looked very interesting in the website photos. This should have rung alarm bells.

It turned out to be like a cross between something from Gormenghast and the Addams Family. Huge cavernous rooms, dimly lit and full of old (not antique - just plain old) furniture.

The staff were also cadaverous and moved about slightly hunched on parquetry that creaked and groaned like an old forest in a gale.

Still, I unpacked in my room (up 84 flights of stairs to the attic) trying to put things on tables and on hangers without actually moving about on the floor, to avoid the dreadful creaking.

I decided I really needed to move in the morning - and this idea was reinforced when I went looking for the breakfast room the next morning.

After negotiating several flights of stairs (up AND down) criss-crossing various stages and wings of the building, I finally found the ´Señora´ who was preparing breakfast. She was dusting off a table in a lovely little room on the corner of the building with early morning sunshine streaming in through the windows. The room was charming with a ´homely´touch to it.

¨Desayuno?¨ I inquired, pointing to the room.
¨No!¨she replied and instead ushered me into a dim, dark room in the middle of the building with a faint glimmer coming from a window into a small light-well.

Breakfast was a 3 day old bread-roll and instant coffee.

So now I am in a much more friendly and pleasant place across the road.

I´m quite liking Santiago. Today was hot and sunny and I wandered the streets all day, taking in the Museum of Contemporary Art.

When I first entered this magnificent edifice I could see the main entrance rotunda was being set up for something, and I was directed downstairs to a single large exhibition room. It contained 12 large paintings by one artist.

Then I asked the door attendant where next. He said that was it. Nothing else.

I left a little shocked and continued with my rambling, past the building, only to discover the front entrance was at the other end!

I had gone into the arse end of the building - so it comes as no surprise that all I saw was a lot of s***



across the andes


through the mountains


mountains road


near the customs post


chile border post (the 66th!)


my street


the 2nd hotel


detail from my window


art gallery


some church or other


protester - good to see demos are alive and well in chile


demo detail

fox on the runway - sweet!!

Well yesterday lunchtime I was sitting slightly perspiring in the beautiful springtime gardens of Colonia del Sacramento, a UNESCO Heritage town a few hours busride west of Montevideo.

It was a picturesque town with all the usual quaintness that makes people flock to these places. I really liked it - but an afternoon, evening and half the following day and I was champing at the bit for some grunge. I can only take so much pretty.

Now here I am less than 24 hours later in 2 deg C in Mendoza, central west Argentina, having spent last night back in Buenos Aires. (¨Do try to keep up, Fanny¨)

Taxi-ing in on the Mendoza runway I was surprised to see a plethora of pussies prancing about the runway. At a closer look I realised they were a type of fox. (Hence the heading)

Despite the chill, I experienced a thrill at being in such close proximity to the Andes, which nestle on the very outskirts (or so it seems) of the city.

Yesterday here it was apparently 20-22 degrees - the cold snap has brought fresh snow to the mountains which I hope will just add to their overall beauty.

I am here only until the morning and then I hope to catch an early bus to Santiago in Chile, where I will spend a few days. The hostel manager here is a charming chatty fellow originally from Panama. Casper (The Friendly Host) gave me an exhaustive overview of what to do in Mendoza.

He had outlined what appeared to be a 6 hour marathon encompassing all of the city´s highlights - despite the fact that it was approaching 4pm and gets dark about 7. But I had to admire his enthusiasm and promised to do my best to SEE IT ALL.

Consequently I walked 9 blocks to the city centre, found a cafe and had pizza.


colonia street


ba graffiti


mendoza abstract

(*apologies for the terrible ´70´s reference in the heading!!)

montevideo glimpses

montevideo building


main square mvd


a bit jeffrey smartish - mvd harbour


suburban building


graffiti


windows


wall abstract

alfa-yum

thanks to my good friend Jana, I now have a new addiction.

ALFAJORES

(Ordering them sounds a bit like asking for ´A Grade´ prostitutes)

They are a chocolate covered caramel biscuit and are quite fragile so you really MUST eat them as quickly as possible.

I think I am up to number 12.